Socks on 2 Circulars
Instructor: Sheron Goldin
Feel free to ask Sheron questions on the socknitters
list or contact Sheron directly
- The Toe
Welcome to the final lesson.† Your sock should look like picture 1 from the
sole side and picture 2 from the instep side.† Now you are ready to decrease for the toe.†
There are two basic ways to do the toe:
the star toe and the shaped toe.† Both
have the same decreases but placed at different points in the work.† The Star toe is discussed in the extras section
at the end of the class.†
shaped toe has the decreases at the sides of the foot.† It decreases 4 stitches every other row, two
on the sole side and 2 on the instep side.†
For a better look, work the decreases one stitch in from the
end of the row. If you feel that this results in a toe that is too
pointy you can do the first half of the decreases every other row,
then decrease every row for the rest.†
Or vary how much of the decreases are done every other row
and how much are done every row until you find the toe that works
for you and looks right to you.† Remember
itís your sock.† Have fun with it.
If you remember we defined
the middle of the heel as the beginning of the row while working the
heel although we did not move any stitches around.† We continue with this definition for this section
also.† Because the row is defined
as beginning and ending at the middle of the sole each row on the
sole side of the sock will have a decrease.†
Both decreases will be done on the same row for the instep
stitches.† So for this sock:
1 (sole side): Knit to 3 stitches from the end, knit 2 together, knit
1 (you will have an odd number of stitches on the needle).†
Repeat for second sock.
Row 1 (instep side): Knit 1, SSK (slip a stitch as if to
knit, slip a second stitch as if to knit, insert left hand needle into
front of two slipped stitches and knit), knit to last 3 stitches, knit
2 together (you will have an even number of stitches, one less than
the number on the sole stitches).† Repeat for second sock.
2 (sole side): Knit 1, SSK, knit across to end (you will now have
an even number of stitches on the needle, the same number as for the
instep side of the sock). Repeat for other sock.
2 (instep side): Knit across.† Repeat
for other sock.
these 2 rows (row 1 sole side both for both socks, then row 1 instep
side for both socks, then row 2 sole side for both socks, then row 2
instep side for both sides and start over) until 8 stitches remain ending
with a row 2 sole side (yes this will leave the instep side one row
shorter Ė donít worry it wonít be noticed).†
This leaves less chance of getting donkey ears (those pesky pointy
ends you sometimes end up with).††
of you will have question as looking at these directions it appears
that you are decreasing every round and you are used to decreasing
every other round.† For those
who have never knit socks Ė stop thinking, donít worry about this
and you donít need to read this until after you have decreased for
the toes.† In fact you may
never need to read this if you donít want to.†
Donít let it confuse you.†
The fact that the round starts in the middle of the row is
what is causing this perception.† Round 1 (starting at the middle of the row
of sole stitches) is actually (for each sock): Knit to 3 stitches
from end, k2 tog, k1, turn, K1, SSK, k to 3 stitches from end of instep
stitches, k2 tog, k1, turn, k1, SSK, k to end of round (middle of
the sock).† Round 2 is: knit across all stitches from beginning
to end of round (again ending in the middle of the stitches on the
needle).† Does this help you
see in your mind what is actually happening rather than what your
mind says the pattern says?† Hope
picture shows the decreases in progress with the stitches slanting
inward on both sides of the toe.† This is why on one side we do a k2 together
and on the other we SSK.
the yarn leaving a 12Ē tail and thread a darning needle with the tail.
off (or the dreaded kitchener stitch A.K.A. grafting)
you are working you are creating another row of stitches, which will
join the front and back stitches.†
You want the weaving you are doing to look as if you knitted
the stitch so donít snug it too tight or leave it too loose.†
You can tighten up your stitches as you go or at the end.† If you want to practice and find it easier to see what you are doing
Ė use a separate strand of yarn in a contrasting color.† Each time you move your yarn pass it under
the needle rather than over the needle.†
This will prevent you from thinking you have an extra stitch
that has to be worked away, or having longer floats that have to be
work (which could be done as you worked the last row if you remember
and feel confident enough Ė I often forget so donít worry about it
just do it now):† You will be working with both the instep group
of stitches and the sole group of stitches.† Hold both needles with the stitches at the tip of the needle, as
if ready to knit after turning your work (just donít slip the just
worked stitches to the cable part of the needle this time).† Slip the first two stitches from the front needle as if to purl
from the left hand needle to the right hand needle as in picture 4,
slip the first stitch over the second stitch as in picture 5, then
return the stitches to the left hand needle.†
Do the same with the group of stitches on the other needle.† This helps to prevent ďdonkey earsĒ from forming.† When you get to the last two stitches you will
slip the last stitch over the next to the last stitch.
hold the darning needle as if it were the knitting needle you were
going to work onto.† Hold your knitting needles so that one is behind the other and that
the yarn end you will be working with is coming from the back needle.† It helps me to also have the back needle sitting
slightly on top of the front needle.†
Put the darning needle with the yarn threaded through it through
the first stitch on the front needle as if to purl.† Leave the stitch on the needle.†
Put the darning needle through the first stitch on the back
needle as if to knit and again leave the stitch on the knitting needle.
the darning needle through the first stitch on the front needle as
if to knit that stitch and take that stitch off the needle (drop it),
put the needle through the next stitch on the front needle (now the
first stitch sitting there) as if to purl the stitch.†
Leave that stitch on the needle.
the darning needle through the first stitch on the back needle as
if to purl that stitch and take that stitch of the needle (drop
it), put the needle through the next stitch on the back needle (now
the first stitch sitting there) as if to knit the stitch.†
Leave that stitch on the needle.**
from * to ** across the row.†† When
you have 3 stitches left on each needle work the first stitch off
the needle as before from the front needle.†
You now have 2 stitches left on that needle so slip the last
stitch over the first stitch leaving only one stitch on that needle,
and work the remaining stitch as the second stitch of that group.†
Repeat for the back needle.†
Now with one stitch left on each needle work the stitch on
the front needle as if to knit, remove it from the needle, work
the stitch on the back needle as if to purl, remove it from the
needle, make sure the stitches are snug but not too tight, pull
the thread tail to the inside of the work and weave in the end.† Repeat for the second sock and you are done.
6 shows the darning needle going as if to purl the first stitch on
the front needle.† Picture
7 shows the darning needle going†
as if to knit the first stitch on the front needle.†
Picture 8 shows the darning needle going as if to knit the
first stitch on the back needle and picture 9 shows the darning needle
going as if to purl the first stitch on the back needle.
10, 11 and 12 show one of the finished socks from the instep side,
the side of the sock and the sole of the sock.
hope you have enjoyed this class.
if you knit a pair of children's socks in at least 75% wool and have
no child to give it to, you can send it to Karen Porter for CIC.
for your future socks:
Alternative Heel Flap
- The Eye of Partridge Stitch
Row 1(knit row):
*Slip 1 stitch, knit 1 stitch. Repeat from *
Row 2 and 4
(purl rows): Slip 1 stitch, purl across to the last stitch, knit last
Row 3: Slip
2 stitches, *knit 1, slip 1 across, end with knit last 2 stitches.
4 rows until you have knit the number of rows needed for the heel
flap. You will end with a purl row.
The slipped stitches do not
fall directly above one another in this pattern.
The Star Toe divides the work
into sections and has a decrease at the end of each section. A simple
star toe, working with four decreases in a row would be written
Row 1: *Knit 6 stitches, knit
2 together, knit 6 stitches, knit 2 together **, (switch yarn as
you are switching socks), repeat from * to **, turn to the other
needle and repeat across that needle. The remaining instructions
lists only one repeat - you can add the additional repeats yourself.
Row 2 and all even rows: Knit
Row 3: Knit
5, knit 2 together across and around
Row 5: Knit
4, knit 2 together across and around
Row 7: Knit
3, knit 2 together across and around
Row 9: Knit
2, knit 2 together across and around
Row 11: Knit
1, knit 2 together across and around
At the end of this row each sock
will have a total of 8 stitches (4 on each needle). cut the yarn leaving
a 12" tail. With a darning needle thread yarn through these stitches.
Go through the stitches a second time to fill in the stitches and
decrease your chance of having a hole at the tip. Draw the stitches
together by pulling the tail snugly. Weave the tail in on the wrong
side of the sock.