Arlene's DK Weight Socks
By: Arlene Williams

 

From: "A. Williams" <quanah@user.rose.com>

Just finished writing out these instructions, and thought I would share.  It makes a nice tight sock for DK weight cotton.  These are a "plain jane" sock, no frills, and look good in a variegated cotton.

And as with all the patterns I share, remember these words:

I am passing this pattern to you as a favour.  I do not expect anything in return except for you to remember me when someday, someone else may need something from you, and you can pass on the favour to them.


3.0 mm dpn's
130 gm DK weight yarn for lady's short sock
I used Patons "Cotton DK" or "Princess Mutli Ragg" (The Ragg is a knitting worsted weight cotton/wool blend, but works fine as well)

Gauge:  6.5 sts and 9 rows to 1 inch on size 3.0 mm needles in st st.

Notes:

1)  Be warned, I do not use inches but count rows, but I will try to include required number of inches.
2)  The instructions are for a lady's size 8 1/2 size shoe, wide foot, short leg on the sock, and a chunky      
leg on the lady.  You may want to alter to fit yourself.
3)  I tend to be very forgiving with sock patterns, and do not have strict numbers to follow.  I want you to learn to flow with the knitting, not be hung up with numbers.

LEG

Cast on 52 sts on 3.0 needles.  Join in round, being careful not to twist the stitches.  Work 1 inch (8-10 rows) in K1, P1 rib.

Work 3 inches (27 rows) in stocking stitch.  This should bring you to 4 inches total.  If you like a longer sock leg, work more in stocking stitch.

HEEL

Knit the next 13 sts, then slip those 13 sts and the previous 13 sts onto one needle for the heel, leaving the remaining 26 sts on 2 needles for the instep.

With wrong side of work facing, proceed as follows:

Row 1:  K1, purl to last st, K1.

Row 2:  *K1, Slip 1 purlways.  Repeat from * to last st.  K1.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until a total of 31 rows (2.5 inches) have been worked, ending with right side facing.

SHAPE HEEL

Row 1:  Knit to the middle of the row, knit 2 more sts, slip 1 knitways, K1, psso (pass slipped st over the knit stitch), turn.

Row 2:  Slip 1 purlways, P5, P2 tog, P1, turn.

Row 3:  Slip 1 purlways, K to within 1 st of the gap, Slip 1 knitways, K1, psso, K1, turn.

Row 4:  Slip 1 purlways, P to within 1 st of the gap, P2 tog, P1, turn.

Repeat rows 3 and 4 until all the stitches have been worked.

Knit across.  If you have an odd number of stitches, decrease one st in the centre of the last row.  (Fudge factor!)  This is needle #1. Remember how many sts you have right now on needle #1, divide by 2, and
mark that number down (x).

TIP:  Knit into the back of the picked up sts along the edge of the heel as this will twist them and less likely to make holes.

Continue with needle #1, and with right side of work facing, pick up and knit into the little bumps along the side of the heel.  This will bring you to a gap before needle #1.

(Fudge factor) Pick-up two sts in the space before the instep; knit these 2 sts tog.  This helps to prevent a hole.  It may be hard to find two sts, but just wing it, doing the best without making obvious holes.

Neelde #2:  Knit across the 26 st for the instep.

Needle #3:  Make 2 sts between the instep and the first bump of the heel, knit these 2 sts tog.  Pick-up and knit into the little bumps along the side of the heel, remembering to knit into the back of the picked up sts.

Remember that number I said to mark down (x)? Well that is the number of sts that are on the start of needle #1 which belong on the end of needle #3. Knit them from #1 onto #3.

You have just completed the hardest part of the sock.  Congratulations!!

OK, count the number of sts on the needles.  Needle #2 should have 26 sts, and needles #1 and #3 should have roughly the same number.  Do NOT panic if they do NOT have the same number, that's life.  You are going to start decreasing sts on needles #1 and #3 for the gusset.  If you do not have the same number of sts on both, then you will do extra decreases on one side. No problem.

Remember, socks are worn on feet, and no one will be on eye level with them to see any little discrepancies in the knitting.  And if they are at eye level, they are most likely in no shape to notice! :-D

GUSSET

Row 1:
1st needle:  Knit to last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle:  Knit across.
3rd needle:  K1, Slip 1 knitways, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.

Row 2:  Knit around.

Repeat rows 1 and 2 until 52 sts divided as 13, 26, 13 on the 3 needles.

TIP:  Try on the leg of the sock on your foot.  How does it fit?  Is 52 sts too big? too tight? just right?  Now is the time to alter the width of the foot.  If 52 sts for the foot is not right for you, decrease more or less sts on the gusset for you.

Continue knitting on the foot until it is about at the base of your big toe (keep trying the sock on the foot).  Keep count of the number of rows worked from the picked up edge cause you need to do the same for sock #2.

SHAPE TOES

Decrease round:

1st needle:  Knit to the last 3 sts, K2 tog, K1.
2nd needle:  K1, Slip 1 knitways, K1, psso, (K2, K2 tog) 4 times, K2 tog, K1.
3rd needle:  K1, Slip 1 knitways, K1, psso, knit to the end of the needle.

Decrease on rows 1, 5, 8, 11, 13, 15, 17, 18.

Rows 2, 3, 4, 6, 7, 9, 10, 12, 14, 16:  Knit around.

Should have 20 sts left.

Try the sock on before grafting.  You might need 1-2 rows more.

Knit across needle #1.  Cut yarn, leaving a 12 inch length for grafting. Graft toe.

TOE GRAFTING

Grafting sounds more complicated than it really is.  You are joining two rows together with a knit and purl motion.  The trickiest part is not to pull the yarn too tight, and not to leave it too loose.

Place the 20 sts on 2 needles, 10 sts on each needle.

Thread the yarn thru a darning needle.

        Stitch 19 17 15 13 11 9 7 5 3 1    Needle A

        Stitch 20 18 16 14 12 10 8 6 4 2   Needle B

The diagram shows the two needles side be side, each with 10 sts.

1.  Run the thread thru st 2 as if to knit; drop st 2 off needle B.
2.  Run the thread thru st 4 as if to purl.  Leave st 4 on needle B.

Take the thread under needle B.

3.  Run the thread thru st 1 as if to purl; drop st 1 off needle A.
4.  Run the thread thru st 3 as if to knit.  Leave st 3 on needle A.

Take the thread under needle B.

5.  Run the thread thru st 4 as if to knit; drop st 4 off needle B.
6.  Run the thread thru st 6 as if to purl.  Leave st 6 on needle B.

Take the thread under needle B.

7.  Run the thread thru st 3 as if to purl; drop st 3 off needle A.
8.  Run the thread thru st 5 as if to knit.  Leave st 5 on needle A.

Repeat steps 5 thru 8 until all sts have been grafted.  Darn end in.

Copyright Arlene Williams, 1999

This pattern was developed by Arlene Williams (quanah@user.rose.com). You may print out a copy for yourself, and make copies for your friends as long as no money is charged INCLUDING for the cost of reproduction or materials, and as long as this copyright notice is included. You may not reproduce this pattern for sale or put it on any internet site without my express permission.

(Pattern reprinted on the Socknitters DYOS page with permission from Arlene Williams)

Love, Arlene in Toronto Personal Shopper - Patons/Brunswick Yarns
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