Christopher's Super Huge Boot Socks
By Anita The Fiber Artist

This is more a design for your own son's socks. 16 year old working out the summer. (In farm communities it is accepted that every child works...they live on a farm it is a given, but when they get old enough they do chores and hold an outside job for money- that's working out) He is wearing work boots all day. and wanted some cushioned socks for his boots. I could do anything with the feet and legs but the top inch or two had to be plain cause that shows. I was very restrained.

This is based loosly on Judy Gibsons "Your putting me on" socks for credit where due. And fits a size 12.5(shoe size) foot.

I used Woolease Burgundy Sprinkle and Slate heather 2 each
5 size 3(American) wooden needles
Gauge: 6 sts/inch over stocking stich
8rows/inch over stocking stitch

Take 2 of the needles with which you intend to work and hold them in your non-dominant hand along with the thread end. Using the Burgandy Woolease, with the dominant hand pass the yarn between the needles and around the front needle, back between and around the back needle. forming a figure *8* sideways arround 2 needles do this 8 times until you have 16 sts.

Using needle # 3 start kniting the stitches off the two needles, (it is best if you get all children who are likely to repeat or tell on you out of the house for this part if you haven't done it before). I knit the first round 8sts on the 3rd needle and 8 on the on I just emptied, so I still have 16 sts devided on 2 needles.

Place marker for end of row- (I use split rings or coil less pins or a contrast piece of string, even a paper clip opened slightly, something that you can put into the fabric since it will fall off the end of the needle.

Increase row 1: Next row, knit 1, increase 1 (M1) (and I use EZ's backward loop. but you can make 1 with the running thread or knit in front and back, suit yourself. just increase 1.) knit 3.
Needle 2: knit 3, M1, k1.
Needle 3: knit 1, M1, k3.
needle 4: knit 2, M1, k1.
Increase row 2: knit around.

Repeat these 2 rows until there are 56 stitches or 16 on each needle. Work one round even to the next to last stitch, increase 1, k1. At this point, I usually move one stitch from needle 3 to 2. and one from 4 to 1. (this will set up the rib so you start and end with knit stitches, no particular reason I just like the look). On the next round I shift stitches so I start every needle with a K (or2). 

Work top and bottom separately:
First 2 needles knit 2, purl 2 rib.
Needle 3and 4 Row 1: K1. slip 1, K1 across.
Row 2: knit across

Work pattern for 7 rows. This is because you want to be starting on a k row for the bottom of the sock.

Change row: Usuing CC (slate heather) knit every stitch. (this keep the colors from mixing on theis row and makes a crisp edge to the stripe, if you want the blurred look use the rib pattern).

At the start of the 2nd row lift the righ thread of the stitch below the first onto the left needle and knit the 2 together. (presto no jog) Continue in pattern:

Needle 1and 2: k2, p2, across every row
Needle 3 and 4: row 1 k1. slip 1, k1 across
Row 2, knit across

Continue changing colors every 8 rows(1 row all k, 7 rows pattern) until you have enough for the foot to start of instep rise.

Increase for instep:

When the sock is 6.5 inches from the toe, start instep increases:
Row 1&2 work even
Row 3 &4: on row 1 of pattern k1, M2. Slip 1, knit 1 across (increase 1 st. each side/ row)
Row 2: K every stitch.

Increase keeping the pattern until there are 12 extra stitches on each of needles 3 and 4. (28 total) end on a knit acroos row of heel stitch. End with at lest 2 rows before the finish of current stripe.

Turn heel:

Work across needles 1 and 2 in pattern, work across needle 3 and across 12 sts on fourth needle, turn purl 2 together work back across to center, mark center and purl 12 from 3rd needle, (at this point I add and extra needle or 2 so I have the top of the sock on 2, the non-working stitches on 2 and the working stitches on 1 or 2, plus one for knitting.I use short needles and too many stitches tend to want to fall off.) (if you don't have that many needles adjust things so you can keep track of what you are doing.)
turn. K2tog, knit across,
turn, P2tog, purl across,
continue in this manner until you have 6 sts remaining. end with knit row,
Pick up 8 stitches along the decreased edge.
Turn, slip 1 purlwise, purl across pick up 8 on other decrease edge,
Turn, slip 1 knit wise and knit to last stitch slip 1 from next needle and K the sliped stitch and the last picked up stitch together.
Turn, slip 1 purlwise purl to last stitch slip on stitch from next needle, and knit the slipped and the last heel stitch together.

Continue until you have returned to 15 sts on each of needle 3 and 4.
Knit one round in pattern.

Discontinue the heel stitch and change to rib on needles 3 and 4, and when the 8 rows of the stripe on the top of the foot are completed change color and continue stripe to top of sock. Work to desired height (mine is 12 inches).

Bind off using the stretch bindoff. (thanks Peggy)
Row 1 k2, m1 (EZ's backward loop) P2, M1continue across (add a m1 between every set of k and p.

Row 2: Using needle 2 sizes larger, K2, pass first st over 2nd; slip the M1, pass the K over the slipped stitch; P1, pass slipped stitch over purled stitch. Continue, knit the knitted stitches, purl the purled stitches, and slipping the M1's.

Try on the intended victim's foot. Rassle them to the ground get the sock back to use as a reference and brag piece for the 2nd sock.

Copyright: August 29, 1999: Anita
The Fiber Artist
Madison IN