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Introduction Lesson 1 Chart A Chart B Lesson 2 Lesson 3 Lesson 4

Lesson 5

Argyle Sock
On-line Socknitting Classes with Edie Eckman


I designed this womanís argyle to be made in the traditional way, with the ankle and instep knit back-and-forth, and the foot knit in the round. The other Cybersocks classes have allowed you to use the yarn size and needles of your choice and given instructions for making a pattern to fit your foot. This is somewhat different, as we are constrained by the graph design to use a certain number of stitches. If you think you need to change the size of your sock, use larger or smaller needles rather than changing the number of stitches. However, if you are really intrepid, write your own graph and knit a sock of your own design!

As we work together, I will suggest ideas that may make your knitting easier. These ideas work for me, and they may work for you. You may have better solutions, and if so, please feel free to use them and share them with the rest of us! My way is not necessarily the best, or the only, way to knit an argyle.

Argyle Construction

It may help to understand the basic construction of an argyle: the ribbing, leg/ankle and instep are knit back and forth, rather than in the round as on most socks. The diamond shapes are knit into this part of the sock using the intarsia method. Donít worry if you havenít mastered intarsia; this is one of the simplest intarsia designs you can do! All this will be covered in Lesson One.

Lesson Two will cover working the heel flap, turning the heel, and working the gussets. These are also worked back and forth.

In Lesson Three we will pause to work the duplicate stitch lines which turn the diamonds into "argyles". We will also take care of some of those pesky ends that you have hanging from the back of your work.

Lesson Four will be joining the gusset stitches and instep, and working the remainder of the foot in the round. 

Lesson Five will cover toe shaping, grafting the toe, and sewing the seams.

I will attempt to scan my project each step of the way, so you can see where you are supposed to be, and see if something looks wrong.

Once you understand the construction involved, you may decide to explore alternatives to this method.

Notes on Materials Needed

I chose sport weight yarn rather than fingering weight so that we all might finish this before the first of next year! Feel free to use any sport weight or DK weight yarn that gives you the right gauge. Also, pick colors to suit you. The colors in the sample sock were chosen from stash, and for their photographic properties (i.e. they show up on the scanner).

Where the instructions call for stitch holders, I use ribbon or cotton crochet thread. Traditional safety-pin type stitch holders weigh too much and cause distortion in my stitches. Thread doesnít get hooked up in my work, and itís easy to keep a small ball of it in my knitting bag, ready for use at any time.

While you can you use double-pointed needles (dpns) throughout, I prefer working back-and-forth on circular needles. Straight needles were used for scanning purposes.

You will note that the pattern does not call for bobbins. In my opinion, bobbins are the main reason knitters shy away from intarsia. They get in the way, and just louse things up. You can make yarn "butterflies" or just leave a length of yarn hanging out the back of your work. More on this later.


Sport or DK-weight yarn, usually 2 50 g balls of the main color (MC) and 1 50 g ball of one contrasting color (A), and a small amount of the second contrasting color for duplicate stitched lines (B).

I am using Berella Country Garden DK from Spinrite (50g/135 yds, 100% superwash merino wool), 2 balls #28 Wild Violet, 1 ball #14 Shrimp, 1 ball #01 Snowdrop.

US Size 3 (3.25 mm) double-pointed needles, or size you need to get gauge (I use US Size 4/3.5mm , but I am a tight knitter)

Stitch holders

Tapestry needle

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